Self-perception is key to knowing your hair type and ensuring that the hair structure is strong and healthy.
It's like putting together a puzzle: discovering what your hair type is and then seeking treatments that ensure the integrity of the strand requires attention that goes beyond reading a label on a shampoo, conditioner, or moisturizing cream on a supermarket or pharmacy shelf.
The main starting point is to discover what the curl pattern of the strand is, a characteristic that can classify it into one of four different types: straight, wavy, curly or kinky. By analyzing the hair structure meticulously, it is possible to notice that straighter strands have a cylindrical shape. Wavy, curly, and kinky hair, on the other hand, have progressively flatter strands and are twisted along their length. The curlier the strand, the more elliptical it is, the more twists it has, and the greater its eccentricity will be.
“But this is not always accessible to the end consumer,” explains Joeni Wada, a researcher at Natura. “Although we conduct experiments in the lab to define the eccentricity of each hair type, the easiest way to discover this in everyday life is through sensory analysis and self-identification,” she says. This is where labels can help: by presenting illustrations of strand shapes and clear explanations, for example, they assure the consumer of the right choice at the time of purchase.
Each strand tells a story
It is also important to consider that, depending on the curl pattern, the characteristics of healthy hair will not always be the same. “It is common to associate shine with health, but this is not always obvious for kinky hair, for example,” explains Adriana Fregonesi, scientific manager at Natura. “Due to its shape, kinky hair does not allow the natural oils from the root to travel down the length of the hair to the tips. However, this does not mean that it is weak or damaged.”
Among Brazilian women, kinky hair is one of the most subjected to aesthetic straightening procedures, such as relaxers and progressive blowouts. The result is shinier hair, but less healthy. “In this case, the shine gives the impression of intact hair,” points out Carla Scavanez, scientific manager at Natura. “But it is a false positive, mainly because we associate the beauty of shine with sealed cuticles and a strengthened hair structure.”
Putting the puzzle together
In such a fragmented market like hair care, with dozens of shampoos, conditioners, masks, ampoules, moisturizers, and shock treatments available all the time, there are three important elements to consider when choosing and applying a product:
The curl pattern: this is the shape of the strand. This classification will define it as straight, wavy, curly, or kinky.
The type of root/scalp: it can be normal, dry, oily, or mixed.
The condition of the hair: this is what self-perception notices most clearly, especially through touch and sight. The hair may be, for example, dry, flaky, frizzy, colored, or under the action of a progressive blowout.
From these classifications, it is necessary to set priorities: what is most important for the hair at that moment? What does it need the most? Hydration? Cleansing? Nutrition?
“In the end, the final word will always be the consumer's,” says Carla. The manager also explains that, although there are increasingly specific products, there will always be gaps in the search: “A dry, curly hair with highlights will not necessarily have a product exclusively aimed at it. From there, it is necessary to make a choice to treat what seems most urgent.”
Among the most common mistakes when choosing a product, consumers look for treatments aimed at hair types different from their own, usually fueled by the hope that they will enhance a different action on the strand. “There are those who have straight hair and seek specific creams for curly hair hoping to gain some volume,” says Adriana. “But a straight strand is not prepared to receive a product aimed at curly hair and will hardly respond well to this misuse.”
Although each strand is unique, there is a universal rule for all: a nourished strand, with a strengthened cortex and preserved cuticles, is one that maintains the same qualities throughout its length. “Just look at the part of the strand closest to the root to guide you: the closer the qualities of the hair are to it, the healthier the hair strand will be,” says Adriana.
