The skin speaks. When something is not right, it communicates with us, whether to express the presence of specific hormones in the body, heal wounds, or warn us that we are aging. And this becomes clear in front of the mirror for a simple reason: the message is almost always delivered in the form of darkened spots that appear, primarily, on the face, hands, and the neck and décolletage area. Thus, looking at one’s own reflection can be synonymous with searching for flaws and a blow to self-esteem.
It was with the aim of keeping the skin free of spots and with an even tone that Natura developed the Chronos Whitening System. To create it, it was necessary to dream big: it was essential to unite, in a single line, products that acted on various types of spots, reached deeper regions of the skin, and, above all, presented visible results in the shortest possible time. After an extensive period of research and testing, the fruits of this labor came. Today, the Chronos Whitening line is the only treatment in dermatological cosmetics that aims to meet these three requirements, acting in a broad, deep, and intensive manner.
“It’s a painstaking job. A meticulous process, with a lot of trial and error,” says Fabiana Paes, senior researcher at Natura responsible for formulating the whitening system. Her challenge was to find the balance between three requirements: meeting consumer expectations with an effective and pleasant-to-use line; ensuring a product of the highest quality that would not show changes in color, odor, and texture after being opened; and maintaining Natura's identity in the active ingredients, creating a strong link between technology and well-being.
Getting to Work
Among the objectives that Fabiana needed to fulfill was the mission of adding 10% of pure, soluble, and stable vitamin C to the formulation of the Intensive Multi-Whitening Serum, the main product of the line. At the same time, it was necessary to avoid the oxidation of this ingredient, which would cause the product to yellow. This means that from the very first day of formulation, the researcher had to eliminate an important component from her tests: water. Although this liquid solubilizes and stabilizes vitamin C, it is the one that triggers the chemical reaction of oxidation, which generates the undesirable qualities that should be eliminated from the serum.
The alternative to develop an anhydrous formula – that is, without H₂O – was to seek solubilization in different solvents. According to Fabiana, several types of prototypes were tested until arriving at a combination that, in addition to being functional, did not leave the substance with a heavy and sticky appearance. “There’s no point in creating a product that works well if it’s not pleasant to use,” she emphasizes. The ideal compound must keep vitamin C solubilized to facilitate its absorption at the moment of application on the skin.
This was just the first step. In addition to pure vitamin C, it was necessary to add other components in order to transform the line into the best alternative for the definitive reduction of any type of spot. Therefore, the other major protagonist of the serum is the aroeira extract, an exclusive whitening active ingredient from Natura. In internal research, it was discovered that aroeira, like vitamin C, has attributes capable of inhibiting the enzyme that stimulates excessive melanin production, the pigment responsible for skin color.
The combined action of the two active ingredients thus ensures the reduction of spots and a more even skin tone.
The serum also contains two acids in its composition: ferulic acid, which has antioxidant action complementary to that of vitamin C, and glycolic acid, which acts on the deeper parts of the skin and also as a chemical exfoliant, controlling melanin production and preventing future spots from reaching the surface of the epidermis.
How to Know if It Works?
After arriving at a prototype that meets all the requirements, the product must undergo a series of tests. The first evaluates the stability of the product and the dosage of vitamin C: the material is placed in a chamber with defined temperature and hours for a period of days. During this process, changes in color, odor, viscosity, and vitamin C dosage are assessed to ensure that the amount of vitamin remains consistent throughout the product's usage. It is at this moment that many of the products available on the market fall behind. “There are those that claim to contain 12%, 16%, or even 30% vitamin C in their composition. But when we observe them in the lab, we notice that the active ingredient is not always pure, is well diluted, or has not been stabilized in the best way,” says Fabiana. “It will not be as effective as a product with 10% pure, soluble, and stable vitamin C.”
After the formula created by the researcher reacts well to the conditions it was subjected to, other questions must be answered: is it safe? Is it pleasant to apply? And, finally: does it work for everyone?
“The active ingredients were chosen so that one complements the action of the other,” says Silas Arandas, researcher responsible for the clinical efficacy testing. “When testing the line, we sought people with spots of different origins to see if all would benefit from the combined action of the elements present in the serum.”
In partnership with the University of São Paulo (USP), Arandas conducted an evaluation of the product using a noble instrument utilized in dermatological science, confocal microscopy: a non-invasive clinical procedure that identifies what is happening in each layer of the skin, reaching even the deepest areas. In this way, the researcher was able to see the effect of the whitening system and assess whether all the active ingredients were functioning correctly, inhibiting excess melanin and ensuring its more uniform distribution upon reaching the surface. “The purpose of the research was not to see if the product was penetrating, but to evaluate the biological result of its action,” he says. “This allowed us to discover that it is possible to treat spots that are still in the deeper layers. We can prevent them from appearing.”
The safety, sensory, and efficacy tests involved the participation of around 500 volunteers, who began to see the first results in skin tone in just two weeks. Over a period of 30 to 90 days, the tested prototype also reduced the size, quantity, and intensity of darkened areas of the epidermis, whether they were of mild, moderate, or severe degree. In total, 100% of the participants showed satisfactory results, to some degree, with the continuous use of the product.
Together and Stronger
In addition to the Intensive Multi-Whitening Serum, the Chronos Whitening line includes two whitening sunscreens SPF 70, one in light medium tone and another in medium dark tone, as well as a whitening cream for the décolletage and hands (SPF 30). These are products that should be used during the day to complement the action of the serum, which is applied at night. They contain two active ingredients: aroeira, which has attributes capable of inhibiting the enzyme that stimulates excessive melanin production; and niacinamide, which regulates the transfer of melanin in the skin, maintaining an even tone of the epidermis and ensuring a complementary action to that of vitamin C and the ferulic and glycolic acids present in the serum. During efficacy testing, the combined use of all products generated results 70% more satisfactory compared to the isolated use of the serum.
For Fabiana, who now sees her formula gaining worldwide recognition as a pioneering and well-accepted product, this is the best way to have her work acknowledged. “I remember when I jumped for joy and was moved in the lab while creating it. I feel that I have fulfilled a mission, and that feeling is my greatest achievement.”
