The discussion surrounding animal testing in cosmetics was still in its infancy when Natura decided to eliminate this practice. In 2016, the company reached the milestone of ten years without conducting animal tests. A long journey of research and investment in technology has been undertaken to make this pioneering effort possible, and you will have the opportunity to learn the details of this story here on our blog.
Today, not only Natura but also its entire network of raw material suppliers follow international protocols to ensure the safety and efficacy of the manufactured cosmetics, without needing to resort to any animal species during the process. Reaching this manufacturing model back in the mid-2000s was not easy, as laboratories were still trying to improve alternatives to animal testing, and it was necessary to wait for technological advancements or create them independently to be able to adopt them. Vanessa Rocha, a scientist in the Consumer Safety Directorate, explains that the opening of Natura's office in France helped accelerate the process. “When we arrived in France, we had closer contact with the discussion, which was already more advanced in Europe, regarding animal testing in cosmetic products and later in ingredients. Natura made the corporate decision, fully aligned with its values and beliefs, to ban the practice from its routine and began the transition to a new model. It was necessary to start from scratch and bring in equipment and researchers prepared to carry out this work in Brazil,” she emphasizes.
In addition to investments in laboratory equipment in Brazil, a laboratory was also created in France, which allowed the company to be closer to alternative technologies as they emerged. With the structures in place, alternative tests to the use of animals began with the use of simpler models, in cell culture, and evolved to the use of equivalent skin models, also known as 3D skin. “Initially, we treated the cell culture models with ingredients and analyzed whether that component caused any toxic effect or alteration in the cell. This work began even before 2006, still within the transition period,” Vanessa recounts. Subsequently, along with cell culture, the company also began working with artificial skin models developed in the laboratory. “The 3D skin model was a revolutionary technology in Europe, and we were the first Brazilian company to use this innovation to develop our products back in 2006,” the scientist adds.
To evolve over the past ten years in the use of alternative testing methodologies, Natura has collaborated with many researchers. In a project developed with Unifesp and supported by FAPESP, the company was a pioneer in developing alternative methods to animal testing for allergy testing. In total, there were more than 20 partnerships with national and international universities and research institutes, which contributed to the development of 67 methodologies, with studies in cell biology, 3D skin and cornea models, stem cells, molecular biology, and in silico, among many others. “We evolved alongside the evolution of science; the more biological models and methodologies we had available, the more we advanced in adapting these models to Natura's reality. We do not replace one model with another; we aggregate and use the best model for each need,” explains Juliana Lago, a researcher in the Advanced Research area.
Application of Computational Biology
In the complex work of cosmetic testing, just as important as the model used – whether cellular or artificial skin – is the reliability and optimization of the process. Currently, one of Natura's main advancements in improving its tests lies in the use of large-scale evaluation techniques and computational biology. With these tools, it is possible to conduct large-scale molecular analyses, which allow for the generation of more comprehensive responses regarding safety profiles and biological functionality simultaneously. Thus, the information obtained enables the construction of databases that can be reused and correlated according to the company's needs. “With these tools, it is possible to predict the reactions of each ingredient and what it can provoke in a given model, optimizing and/or reducing the need for laboratory tests,” explains Daniela Zimbardi, a researcher in the Advanced Research area at Natura.
By cross-referencing the generated information, it is possible to know, much more quickly, what type of ingredient is most suitable for each purpose. “Instead of conducting isolated tests to evaluate antioxidant action, others to assess the inflammatory profile, or others to verify mechanisms involved in skin hydration, we can perform various analyses simultaneously, which makes the process of discovering functionality and safety faster and also more reliable, allowing us to identify ingredients with undesirable toxicological profiles and, furthermore, direct them to the best functional benefits they can provide for the skin,” Daniela reinforces.
After so many years of investment in alternative methods to animal use, Natura's goal is to continue to be an example in this manufacturing model in Brazil. “We took the best knowledge available in the scientific literature and adapted it to the reality and needs of Natura. We will continue to use the most advanced technologies and knowledge to bring safe and effective products to consumers,” concludes Juliana.
