The new Chronos hit the market in 2016, bringing a complete line for the most diverse skin needs. A lot of science was used in all stages of product creation, and we have already shared this story in a series of reports here on the blog. Today, we bring you a summary of the efforts involved in this relaunch so that you don't miss any stage of the project and its innovative technologies.
Chronos is an iconic line from Natura, the first in the world in the category to guide the portfolio by age. For its relaunch, one of the first concerns of the research team was to deepen the knowledge about the skin's needs at each age group, thus making it possible to seek more accurate extracts and formulations for skin treatment at 30, 45, 60, and 70 years old.
Using tools of computational biology, the Advanced Cosmetic Technologies Research team at Natura gathered transcriptomic data from over 850 samples of healthy skin biopsies, aiming to identify which molecular mechanisms of the skin could be associated with each age group. After seven months, the team had mapped the most frequent reactions and modulations at each age. With detailed information about skin behavior, it was time to propose new actives that addressed these needs.
Jatobá and Casearia: biodiversity actives
Big news in the relaunch of the new Chronos, Jatobá and Casearia are species from Brazilian biodiversity that have been transformed into anti-aging actives thanks to the work of Natura's teams in Bioagriculture, Advanced Cosmetic Technologies, Ingredients, and Formulation.
The Bioagriculture team went into the field to locate the occurrence points of the plants and their planting conditions, thus trying to make the supply of raw material viable on an industrial scale. Meanwhile, the Ingredients team had to meticulously examine the species, identify their chemical properties, and extract only those with cosmetic potential. In parallel, the Advanced Technologies team tested how each extract acted in skin treatment, with the purpose of confirming their benefits. For the Chronos tests, a new methodology was developed, which used leftover skin samples from plastic surgery, an innovative and much more realistic model of 3D skin.
All areas worked simultaneously and exchanged information and discoveries to produce the best active, with scientifically proven beneficial effects for the skin. “Nothing happens in isolation. The Bioagriculture area has to enable the production of plant raw material, but we in the Advanced Cosmetic Technologies area have to confirm its benefits and ensure its safety,” explained Juliana Lago, a researcher at Natura.
The formulation challenge
After all this work, with the extract defined and benefits confirmed, the Formulation team had the mission of creating a product with a pleasant sensory experience for the consumer. Besides the expected treatment activity, it is important that it has appropriate texture, spreadability, color, shine, fragrance, and final finish.
“The Ingredients and Advanced Cosmetic Technologies areas had already proven that those actives were effective in skin treatment; they worked well in isolation, it was up to us to make their use pleasant for the consumer. We wanted these actives to be there as the heroes of the story, signing the lines,” highlighted Joana Miranda, Formulation Manager for the Face Category.
At the end of all the work, the feeling of mission accomplished. The Jatobá extract is featured in Chronos 45+ Firmness and Radiance, while the Casearia extract is the main protagonist on the label of the Anti-Aging Filling and Revitalization Cream 60+.
Learn more about the development of the new Chronos
Computational biology and 3D tissue testing enhance anti-aging treatment
Jatobá extract: the transformation of a seed from the cerrado into an anti-aging active.
Casearia: the medicinal plant that became an anti-aging active
Learn how the formulation area acted in the development of the new Chronos