The launch of the new Chronos brought with it many discoveries and innovations. Among the new features, Natura's daily facial care product line transformed casearia into an anti-aging active ingredient. The casearia extract is featured on the label of the Anti-Aging Filling and Revitalization Cream 60+, but for this component to take its place, extensive research from different areas of Natura was necessary.
It was after a literature search for active ingredients from Brazilian biodiversity that had potential for cosmetic use that the team involved in the Chronos project found a single reference to a molecule that would be present in casearia and could bring benefits to the skin. “This information was found in only one article, and there was no certainty that it referred to the same species we knew or that the effect would be replicated, but we decided to take a chance and start an investigation,” recalls Kelen Fabiola, a researcher in the Cosmetic Technology area.
Before testing the action of casearia on the skin, it was necessary to access the plant. To do this, the Bioagriculture team contacted a community of producers located in the south of São Paulo State. “We made a visit and identified that some of them already had casearia in their backyards. We conducted an inventory of the species to determine the volume of available leaves and then sent samples for the Natura Ingredients team to work with,” highlights Carolina.
An active ingredient full of synergy
The Ingredients and Cosmetic Technologies areas had the mission of confirming the cosmetic potential of casearia. However, the task proved to be more complicated than the team had anticipated. “We were focused on isolating the molecule that would bring this benefit to the skin; we conducted a phytochemical screening study on the plant's leaves to try to locate it, but we couldn't find the molecule with elastic effect on the skin,” recalls Cintia Ferrari, Scientific Manager of the Green Ingredients Technology area. Even without being able to isolate the molecule, the team decided to continue the work and develop the extract from the casearia leaves to try to confirm the occurrence of some benefit in its application. “There wasn't just one molecule, but we realized that the synergy of the components in the leaves had a high potential for biological activity. It was the combination of the molecules present in the extract that provided the expected effect,” celebrates Cintia.
The tests confirmed that the casearia extract, with all its synergy, brings very beneficial activity to the skin's elastic system. “The extract helps protect the elastic fibers present in our skin from breaks caused by sun exposure. It also enhances the production of elastin and hyaluronic acid, a molecule that greatly contributes to filling the skin's volume. Wrinkles are smoothed out without the need to inject anything, as the effect occurs naturally,” summarizes Kelen Fabiola.
Even with the confirmations and good news, the work of the teams involved in the project was still far from over. It was necessary to conduct various safety tests and also confirm whether casearia would have the same effect throughout the year. “The plant is influenced by climatic conditions that can alter its composition. We monitored whether the active ingredient maintained the same effects in different seasons,” explains Carolina. Tests over a year showed that there were no significant changes.
With everything tested and approved, the product went to the factory, and the team expressed their gratitude to the farmers involved in the project. “In all projects involving biodiversity, farmers are fundamental. They are the ones who properly manage the plants, ensuring the necessary volume of leaves and a quality extract. We can only be thankful,” concludes Carolina.
Casearia is not the only active ingredient from biodiversity present in the formulation of the new Chronos. Here on the blog, you can also check out the entire process of developing the jatobá extract and follow the work of other research areas involved in this process.
Learn more about the development of the new Chronos
Computational biology and tests on 3D tissue enhance anti-aging treatment
Jatobá extract: the transformation of a seed from the cerrado into an anti-aging active ingredient.
Learn how the formulation area contributed to the development of the new Chronos
