The challenge was to find a new anti-aging active ingredient from Brazilian biodiversity. A long research journey, involving various areas of Natura and partners, was undertaken for the team to arrive at the jatobá extract, an active ingredient that increases collagen production and is already being used in the formulation of the new Chronos 45+ Firmness and Radiance. Today, we will reminisce about this research and innovation journey to give a glimpse of the extensive behind-the-scenes work necessary for a product to finally reach the market.
The story of the jatobá extract at Natura is over ten years old. At that time, the company began to observe the use of polysaccharides with biological activity in cosmetics. While studying this class of compounds, it was identified that jatobá polysaccharides could have interesting effects on the skin. To confirm this hypothesis, Natura opened several research fronts. The first involved the Bioagriculture team, responsible for developing new productive chains. It was necessary to map the locations where jatobá occurs to discover if it was feasible to use it as an active ingredient on an industrial scale, and for this, we sought help from the Federal University of Viçosa (UFV) and the Forest Research Society (SIF/UFV).
“Jatobá is a late-growing tree species that finds ideal conditions to develop after the forest is beginning to form. It is a slower-growing species that needs at least 12 years to start producing seeds,” explains Camila Brás, a researcher in the Bioagriculture area at Natura. Given this species profile, starting a plantation became unfeasible. It was necessary to identify regions where jatobá occurs, with established plants already producing fruits. For this, Camila – who at the time was a partner of Natura and studied jatobá in her master's degree – turned to scientific papers and herbaria at various universities across the country. “I went to herbaria at the Federal Universities of Minas Gerais, Ouro Preto, Viçosa, Lavras, at the Botanical Garden of Rio de Janeiro, and listed the occurrence records of jatobá in various regions of Brazil,” she explains.
From the information gathered in the herbaria, Camila noticed a higher number of records in the states of Espírito Santo, Bahia, Goiás, and Minas Gerais. Together with the SIF/UFV team, she began a series of expeditions to these locations to confirm the presence of jatobá and assess the feasibility of creating a seed production chain. “With the support of institutions, well-known forestry engineers, and local residents, our team visited several areas until we found, in Goiás, a macro-region with several productive jatobás, essential for what we needed,” recalls Camila.
One of the producers was already working with other fruits from the cerrado and was using jatobá pulp. “It worked very well because they were already using the pulp, but our interest was in the seed. This way, the chain was very well adjusted. We sought partners to help us with the processing of the seeds to ensure the ideal conditions for obtaining the active ingredient, and we refined this chain,” explains Camila.
Focus on the laboratory
While Camila traveled across Brazil, other areas of Natura were conducting research to confirm the properties of jatobá and its effects on the skin. For the Ingredients area, the challenge was to identify the chemical substances present in the plant and enable the extraction of its properties with cosmetic potential. “We identify the substances that the plant produces and then we have to develop and optimize the extraction process to concentrate the compounds of interest, in search of a potent extract that can be produced on an industrial scale. Our extraction process was patented and follows the principles of green chemistry, mainly using solvents like water and agro-solvents,” explains Pamela Araujo, an Ingredients researcher at Natura.
Subsequently, the Advanced Cosmetic Technologies area researched how the jatobá extract acts on the biological mechanisms involved in the skin aging process, in an attempt to confirm its benefits. “We put jatobá in contact with skin-derived cells, in vitro, and evaluate whether it can indeed stimulate these cells to produce more collagen. After several tests and refinements, we were able to confirm our hypothesis that jatobá can increase collagen, elastin, and reduce glycation, a biological process that damages skin proteins during aging,” explains Juliana Lago, a researcher in Advanced Cosmetic Technologies.
All areas work simultaneously and exchange information and discoveries to produce the best active ingredient, with scientifically proven beneficial effects for the skin. “Nothing happens in isolation. The Bioagriculture area has to enable the production of the plant raw material, but we also have to confirm its benefits and ensure its safety,” clarifies Juliana. “After we provide the extract, we need to conduct a series of tests to standardize its specification, where the active ingredients are monitored. This way, it is possible to control this ingredient and ensure its quality, safety, and efficacy,” adds Pamela.
After years of relentless research, the jatobá extract is now available as part of the relaunch of the Chronos line, restoring radiance and elasticity to the skin of women over 45 years old. “All tests show that the extract is very effective in what it proposes to do, and we are satisfied with the result,” concludes Juliana.
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