In general, interest in health, beauty, and well-being is increasing more and more; and in this context, natural origin products are gaining growing space in the market. The search for differentiated items, with added socio-environmental values and healthier options, has stimulated the interest of a market that desires products that are closer to the primary form in which they are found in nature. This is what happens, for example, in food. The increase in demand for organic foods, which are grown without the use of synthetic chemical products (such as fertilizers and pesticides), has led to the growth of a market niche that is also reflected in other areas related to well-being, such as the cosmetic field. Products that contain cosmetic active ingredients of natural origin, capable of providing other beneficial effects beyond those traditionally offered by synthetic routes, have been gaining an increasingly larger share of the market in recent years.
Cosmetics, in general, are formulated to enhance the health and beauty of the skin. They contain various active agents in their formulation, among which we can mention: retinoids, vitamins, peptides, poly-hydroxy acids, and principles extracted from plants (such as polyphenols). These agents have various actions, which can, for example, improve the barrier properties of the stratum corneum, act as antioxidants, stimulate collagen production, among others. For example, antioxidants include a variety of agents such as flavonoids, a type of polyphenol found in plants, which generally offers protection against UV rays but also has other actions; this is the case with grape seed extract, which, being rich in isoflavonoids, can induce the expression of growth factors in keratinocytes, a useful effect for the healing of dermal wounds [1].
As we discussed in the post “Keeping an Eye on the Amazon,” Brazil is in a privileged situation to study the potential of plants in their various applications, due to its enormous natural wealth. Imagine how many resources our forests present. How many secrets would the so-called exotic fruits, native or characteristic of the Amazon region, such as cupuaçu, acerola, bacuri, murici, and many others, hold? The interesting thing is that many species from the Amazon have been used by the native people for a long time, and the knowledge about the powers of nature is passed down from generation to generation. For example, the Brazil nut tree, which is only found in the Amazon in Brazil, is used for various applications: it can be peeled and consumed directly as food or used in the preparation of sweets, ice creams, and flour; the oil is used in the manufacture of soaps, creams, and shampoos; and the shell is used in the production of medicines.
The union of popular knowledge with scientific analysis will certainly bring benefits for all. The book Fruiting and Useful Plants in Amazonian Life [2,3] provides a good example that illustrates this relationship: “Glória, from the countryside, visited the Chemical Engineering department at the Federal University of Pará (UFPA) and told a professor that her mother produced andiroba oil. She explained that her mother left the seeds covered for 30 days to make the oil. The professor quickly reacted: ‘Do you know how long it takes here in the lab, using solvents and pressing? Only 1 hour!’. Surprised, the lady then asked the professor if the active substances that heal people were still part of the oil obtained by this quick process. He replied that researchers still did not know. He said that some components of the oil obtained through the artisanal process (with a long fermentation time) do not appear in the oil produced industrially. Could these components be responsible for the medicinal effect of the oil?” The most important aspect of this relationship is the appreciation of each source of knowledge through payment for the associated traditional knowledge.
Brazilian biodiversity is rich and is just waiting for an opportunity to be utilized broadly and rationally, but first, it is necessary to see the wealth that lies in simplicity. The popular wisdom of the region should be valued, after all, long before science arrived, the knowledge of the properties of plants was already used by that people and passed down from generation to generation. The union of practical experience with a scientific basis will certainly lead to more effective methods of utilizing the species, as well as the discovery of new applications.
Maria Cristina Valzachi is a pharmaceutical biochemist graduated from the Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences at USP and has a master's degree in Pharmacology from the Institute of Biomedical Sciences at USP. Currently pursuing a doctorate at this same institution, she is dedicated to research and studies in the areas of Neurochemistry and Behavioral Pharmacology, with an emphasis on adolescence. She has a special interest in all fields related to education and the dissemination of ideas.
Contact: cris.valzachi@gmail.com
References
[1] Amer M, Maged M. Cosmeceuticals vs pharmaceuticals. Clinics in dermatology. 2009;27(5):428-430;
[2] Shanley P, Medina G. Andiroba. In: Fruiting and useful plants in Amazonian life. 2005;p.41-50;
[3] Shanley P, Medina G. Brazil nut tree. In: Fruiting and useful plants in Amazonian life. 2005;p.61-73.
Figure: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Acerola_Malpighia_glabra.jpg
