Synthetic chemical products, such as those produced from petroleum derivatives, have been used in cosmetics since the 19th century. They allowed for the standardization and reduction of production costs, making hygiene and beauty products more accessible to everyone. However, concerns about the effects of these substances on health and the environment soon emerged, and in recent decades, they have driven the cosmetics industry to seek new ingredients. The market demands safer, more effective products based on renewable resources, highly biodegradable, and with a more sustainable manufacturing process.
The plant-based formulation trend has been one of the biggest trends and continues to be followed (although today there is greater concern about water and carbon footprints). In most cases, plant-derived ingredients (extracts, oils, resins, essential oils) make up only a small fraction of the final product. However, there are some companies that manage to replace 100% of synthetic and/or animal-derived raw materials, such as the American company Burt’s Bees. One of the biggest obstacles to the application of plant ingredients is the limitations related to supply and quality, which can vary substantially depending on the time of year or the source location. The advantages, however, are many. The market for natural products continues to grow, thanks to the high acceptance and demand from consumers, who have undergone behavioral changes and are seeking products with a more sustainable and less synthetic appeal. Additionally, plant-derived ingredients can be considered renewable resources, provided they are obtained through proper management.
Unfortunately, it is not possible to replace all synthetic compounds with plant ingredients. Surfactants are one example. Also known as tensioactives, they are widely used in hygiene and beauty products (as well as in cleaning products) because they function as emulsifiers, cleaning agents, foam formers, and solubilizers. Sulfates, for example, have the ability to produce foam. They are chemically synthesized molecules that organize themselves in the form of micelles, responsible for removing impurities. However, these micelles easily solubilize in water, potentially polluting rivers and water sources. Although there are some options for natural surfactants, their functionality does not always match that of synthetics. One option that has been the subject of much research is called biosurfactants. Produced from microorganisms, they exhibit low toxicity and are biodegradable. Despite the higher costs involved in their production, some types of biosurfactants have already begun to be produced on a commercial scale by Japanese (Kaneka, Toyobo, Saraya) and American (Jeneil Biotech) companies.
Another major challenge for the cosmetics industry is finding substitutes for synthetic preservatives. Today, parabens (esters of benzoic acid) are the most commonly used, as they are effective and inexpensive. However, there are controversies regarding their indiscriminate use, which could pose health risks. It is difficult to find natural substances that are suitable for inhibiting broad-spectrum microbial growth, which is necessary for large-scale production. Additionally, these substances cannot interact with other ingredients or alter the texture, color, or odor of the final product. Currently, the most effective natural preservatives are derived from sugars, fatty acids, and amino acids. An example is Xylitol, a sugar obtained from plants, whose antimicrobial activity is already described in the literature. Extracts from leaves of various botanical species have also been widely studied. Just to cite one example, researchers from UNESP evaluated the antimicrobial action of the extract from Barbatimão (a native tree from the cerrado) and believe it could even be used in the formulation of antiseptic soaps.
These are just examples. Much work has been done in the search for substitutes for various classes of cosmetic ingredients, such as emollients, polymers, silicones, esters, and many others. But to achieve sustainability, it is also necessary to rethink the processes by which ingredients are obtained. Green Chemistry is a line of thought that follows this direction. It focuses on reducing the use of solvents, using reagents with low environmental impact, and increasing the efficiency of industrial processes. After all, it is of little use to create cosmetics that are safe for human health and the environment if their manufacturing process generates toxic waste and entails enormous energy costs.
References
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SOUZA, T. M.; MOREIRA, R. R. D.; PIETRO, R. C. L. R.; ISAAC, V. L. B. 2006. Evaluation of the antiseptic activity of dry extract of Stryphnodendron adstringens (Mart.) Coville and of a cosmetic preparation containing this extract. Brazilian Journal of Pharmacognosy 17(1): 71-75. Available at: http://www.scielo.br/pdf/rbfar/v17n1/a15v17n1.pdf
CLENDENNEN, S. K. & BOAZ, N. W. 2008. The value of green processing. GCImagazine, p. 56-57. Available at: http://www.eastman.com/Literature_Center/Misc/TheValueOfGreenProcessing.pdf
DAYAN, N.; KROMIDAS, L.; FLANAGAN, J. 2011. Preserving cosmetics with natural preservatives and preserving natural cosmetics. In: DAYAN, K. & KROMIDAS, L. (eds) Formulating, packing, and marketing of natural cosmetics products. John Wiley & Sons, p. 169-178.
MORAIS, I. B. F & ANGELIS, L. H. 2012. Biotensioactives: a cleaner alternative for the cosmetics industry. Pós em Revista 6: 185-187.
RYALL, Julian. 2012. On the rise. Cosmetics Business. Available at: http://www.cosmeticsbusiness.com/news/article_page/On_the_rise/75304
VILHA, A. O. M. Innovation management in the Brazilian personal care, perfumery, and cosmetics industry: an analysis from the perspective of sustainable development. 2009. Thesis (Doctorate in Scientific and Technological Policy) – Institute of Geosciences, State University of Campinas, Campinas.
