Essential Oils have always been present in Perfumery. At first glance, we are not talking about Innovation, as the use of these ingredients goes beyond the records of the history of these products regardless of the form of application, whether in creams, ointments, balms, or incense and fumigators.
We only need to go back to the period when the Middle East was considered the cradle of civilization, and we will find records of the beginnings of distillation processes for the production of Essential Oils, used even today in the perfumery industry.
It is true that perfumery has evolved significantly since those times, and today the number of oils used in this industry has grown tremendously. New extraction techniques and production of aromatic extracts have emerged, allowing a vast range of characteristics to be tailored to meet current requirements.
The evolution of the Chemical Industry and the synthesis of new molecules have given new life to the perfumery industry. The creation of new synthetic ingredients - with unique characteristics and very competitive costs - and their excellent performance in various applications have caused the development of new natural-origin aromatics to lose momentum, as from an economic standpoint, the competition can be quite unfair.
Despite all the economic or technical advantages we can cite in favor of synthetics, Essential Oils have not lost their space in perfumery, especially in what we call Fine Perfumery due to their richness and complexity of notes, which guarantees their place in the most sought-after palettes of Perfumers around the world.
The Techniques of Obtaining and Producing Aromatics
In perfumery, we cannot limit ourselves to talking only about Essential Oils that are obtained through the classic steam distillation process, but we also have to consider those aromatics that are obtained through extraction, whether by using organic solvents or not.
Currently, refining techniques allow for great flexibility in how each essential oil or aromatic extract will be refined, whether by increasing the concentration or isolating the most desired ingredients, such as the “patchouli hearts” (rich in patchoulol), or the deterpenation of citrus oils to increase the concentration of the olfactorily richer and more interesting aldehydes. Similarly, it is possible to reduce or eliminate undesirable ingredients, whether for consumer safety reasons (e.g., isoeugenol, safrole) or due to intense coloration present in some aromatic extracts. When we talk about the production of aromatics, we cannot overlook the challenges of plant production. When selecting a new plant that initially presents a pleasant odor, it does not necessarily mean that we have found a “future” Essential Oil.
The perfect identification of the plant and its domestication for production in traditional, organic agriculture or its rational and sustainable extraction is a hard and challenging task. Adaptation to the soil, the best planting conditions, harvesting time, or the structuring of a management plan (forest species/extraction) can define the success and future of this plant for use in Perfumery. The same can be said for the choice of the best process for obtaining the aromatic, which can reproduce with quality the best olfactory characteristics.
The challenges do not stop there.
Safety and Cost
Current legislation imposes more and more restrictions on the use of certain ingredients for consumer safety. In this case, essential and aromatic oils may present many limitations on use, as we often find some undesirable components in their composition.
How much can we pay for an essential oil? This may be one of the most difficult questions to answer. We can simply base it on the yields of our extraction process and the cost of this plant. We add to this value the cost of the process, packaging, transportation, and taxes, without forgetting the profit of those who produced the ingredient. Well, this would be the price of an ingredient that already has its defined market and competitors, but when we talk about innovative ingredients, the values can be very different.
It is necessary to consider the olfactory contribution in the creation of fragrances and also the values that lie behind the production of this ingredient. For example, we can cite organic cultivation and sustainable extraction management. The involvement of rural producers and traditional communities in the production of this ingredient also adds even more value to the essential oil, and if there are stories of traditional use and/or manipulation, well, then we are truly faced with a gem, and all of this must be considered.
Only Essential Oils and Aromatic Extracts can provide a creation with the complexity and richness so appreciated by consumers.
It is up to the Researcher to identify plants that have interesting olfactory characteristics and, from then on, develop the process that maintains the characteristics that sparked their interest, safely, with quality and economic competitiveness.
It is up to the artist who will shape the stone to bring the desired shine and form to their creation while keeping the elements that compose their art a secret.
Innovation lies in linking all these links, generating a product filled with technology and meaning!
Reading Suggestions: (Want to know more?)
[1] Guenther, E; The Essential Oils. Florida, Krieger Publishing Company Malabar, 1972.
[2] Husnu Can Baser, K.; Buchbauer, G; Handbook of Essential Oils – Science, Technology and Application. Boca Raton, London, New York, CRC Press, 2010.
[3] Watson, L. Jacobson’s Organ – and the remarkable nature of smell. New York, W.W. Norton & Company, 2000.
